Wang vs Wang: Pre-Fall 2010

In this corner: the new darling of downtown fashion, whose front row glistens with fresh-faced starlets and design ingénues – or at least their trendy hangers-on. A developing talent, each season he takes a stronger foothold in the fashion industry. His work is focused and confident, but will he be a survivor?

And in that corner: the fashion heavyweight who needs no introduction. A great New York man once said “You want pasta, you go to Little Italy. You want bridal, you go Wang.” While her dominance of the bridal market for the last 20 years is undeniable, her RTW collections are diverse and fearlessly experimental.

Who will win the War of the Wangs? Find out as we compare their presentations for Pre-Fall 2010. Pre-Fall is often the moment when designers experiment with new ideas. What better platform could their be for examining these two, who are the very definition of avant-garde?


First Look Out
Vera opened with a jacket and knee sock ensemble, evoking a cavalier, private-school badgirl; Alexander showed a belted jacket, coupled with skinny pants which remained a motif throughout the collection.
Vera: 1
Alexander: 0


Blazer

Vera's version went in a tuxedo direction, with peaked lapels; Alexander showed his talent for shifting proportion with this elongated, extreme low-stance interpretation.

Vera: 1

Alexander: 1

Girly

Vera embellished a 1920s silhouette with various textures; Alexander went for sleek, effortless cool by mixing culottes with strapless.
Vera: 1
Alexander: 2

LBD

While both Wang LBDs featured assymetrical draping, Vera's was soft, dynamic and alluring; Alexander's was vampy and assertive.
Vera: 2
Alexander: 2
Coats

A great coat is all about detailing (after cut, of course). I loved the furry pockets on Vera's wool parka and the creative draw-string waist on Alexander's city slicker.

Vera: 3

Alexander: 2

Off the shoulderBlame the 80s revival, shoulders are the new erogenous zone. Vera's interpretation was deconstructed and architectural; Alexander created a look which was both casual and sophisticated.

Vera: 3
Alexander: 3

In the end, I could not choose between a legend and a prodigy, so I put it to you: which Wang holds more space in your heart and closet?

Was I the only one...

... underwhelmed by Alexander McQueen's showing for Spring 2010? I'm used to him breaking through limits of form and redefining construction, while delivering fully developed statements. The collection didn't seem especially innovative, other than the footwear:

I guess it's unfair of me to expect him to outdo himself every time out. Still, it made me miss the theatricality of his past shows, for which he was occasionally chastised. Spring/Summer 1999 literally took my breath away:

NOTE added February 18th, 2008: Alexander McQueen died one week ago today. Some people were surprised that I didn't blog about it immediately, and to be honest, I feel strange writing about it now. I thought about compiling and posting my favourite McQueen pieces, but memorialization feels like a callous exercise to me right now. It's hard to explain the grief over someone whom you never met, yet who profoundly influenced your aesthetic outlook. McQueen's work was more than fashion to me. It was a glimpse at something transcendent, visceral and above all, beautiful. He created the kind of otherworldly beauty that made me wonder and dream. My clumsy words are flat and lifeless against what they deign to describe.

One of my most closely cherished dreams was to one day see a McQueen show live. I think I am mourning the death of that dream and grappling with the fact that there will never be another collection to behold.

I leave my criticisms of his last collection, above, unchanged. My words reflect the fact that I never compared, nor could ever compare, Alexander McQueen to any other designer; I could only compare him to himself. The critique proves that you never appreciate what you have until it's gone. I certainly feel that way, and am sure that history will eclipse my remarks as his last collection becomes edified as his greatest.

I mourn in the most selfish way, in grief for my own loss. I hope that Mr. McQueen has found the peace he sought.

My current obsession

I bought a leather backpack form Roots two years ago. It still looks new after I dragged it around Europe (twice), Argentina, Australia and an eventing season in Florida. It has confirmed my belief that Roots makes top quality leather goods at an incredibly reasonable pricepoint.

Of course, a backpack is not the most sophisticated statement. Yet I can't bring myself to get a briefcase until I finish my law degree; it's one affectation that makes me balk.

I'm obsessed with the mid-size duffel, the perfect transition between student and professional. It's reasonably masculine too, but still has flair. Here are a few of my favourites:

I love Roots leather products: quality, reasonably priced and free of obnoxious logos.

I saw this bag at the Bally shop in Brisbane. The combination of wool and leather and the simple stripe reminds me of high-quality horse rugs.

I abhor logo. I make an exception for tasteful applications of the Burberry plaid.

Top 10 trends: # 1

# 1: Internal SpacesAs clothes become more sculptural and materials more technologically advanced, designers are using negative space to shape their ideas. While fashion has always emphasized silhouette (and likely always will) the most significant trend this year engaged with the definition and decoration of internal spaces. This is a new visual frontier for fashion and perhaps is a reflection of contemporary culture; the environmental and economic crises evince a new era of social and political transparency and accountability. Combined with the sheer trend, designers may be parsing fashion’s fixation on the external, penetrating veneers and alluding to the importance of their customers’ interior worlds and lives.

TO PULL IT OFF: This is an avant-garde look, based on the notion of having nothing to hide. As such, the one thing you’ll need to make this work is confidence.


The most accessible way to incorporate negative space into your wardrobe is by using cut-outs, like this dramatic gown from Marchesa...
...and this quirky shoe from Proenza Schouler.

Viktor & Rolf rendered cut-outs in three dimensions.

Decoration of interior spaces: an evening bag hiding inside the fold of a jacket at Karl Lagerfeld

Cultural theorists often refer to a woman's purse as a metaphor for her mystery (I'll spare you the lewd Freudian interpretation). What, then, do we make of this candid bag from Stella McCartney...

...or this clear innovation from Prada?

(uh-oh... is my liberal arts education showing?)

Top 10 trends: # 2

# 2: SheerTranslucence was the order of the day at many shows this season. This time around, we evolve past the tarty late-90s exposure of undergarments towards a more architectural layering aesthetic. The fabrics are no longer paper thin and sleek, but gauzy and textural.

TO PULL IT OFF: Layer long over short, slinky over structured, light over heavy; keep the colours in the same palette for more polish. It’s very easy for sheers to look trashy, so try to create visual interest rather than titillation.

Sheer ruffles from Giambattista Valli

Sheer was the last look out at Hermès. Notably, this was the only sheer piece in the collection.

This is a great example of contrasting textures from Stefano Pilati for Yves Saint Laurent: the softness of the fabric against the architecture of the necklace.

The perennial innovator, Gareth Pugh showed layers of shutter-like sheer fabric. While this is an extreme example, consider a top or skirt rendered in this manner.

Top 10 trends: # 3

# 3: The Wrapped Shoe

Grecian footwear has (finally) evolved past the gladiator, as Classical draping migrates down the leg. The new "it" shoe is wrapped, knotted and bound, conjuring images of Geishas and goddesses. You can work this trend in the daytime, in the form of city-friendly flats paired with billowy pants and statement eyewear, or at night, with dramatic platforms and a sparkly cocktail dress.

TO PULL IT OFF: the idea here is romantic, not bulky. Unless you have Elle MacPherson’s legs, keep the wrapping to minimum above the ankle.

Use colour make this look softer, like these two sandals from Burberry Prorsum...


...or harder, like this wedge from Givenchy.

Top 10 trends: # 4

# 4: Frayed EdgesCheck out my post "Frayed So" from October first. You can incorporate this trend into nearly any outfit; get creative with the interplay of construction and deconstruction.

Here are some more examples:

Frayed edges can still be incredibly polished. Consider the traditional Chanel tweed.

Unravelling satin at Prada

Tribal influences defined the Rodarte collection. These women never fail to make an original statement.

Top 10 trends: # 5

# 5: Glitter Who doesn't love a little sparkle? But instead of a uniform bathing in glitter, designers this season used gems and sequins to illustrate naturalistic shapes and images, often over a sheer backdrop. This means that your head-turning entrance will be evocative as well as glamorous.

TO PULL IT OFF: While many bright young things are irreverently donning sequin embellishments on droopy tees and tanks, I urge anyone over 25 to keep glitter for evening. It's not just appropriate, it simply makes a bigger impact against more mysterious lighting.

Could we be a little more French, please? Chanel, mais bien sur!

Classical vines adorned this prim dress at Miu Miu...

... and this red-carpet showstopper at Marchesa.

Top 10 trends: # 6

# 6: The New Slouchy Boot

I never liked the slouchy boot. This season's interpretation, however, is a departure from the sloppy, bunchy sheath style, which only serves to accentuate a leg's stubbiness.

The new slouchy boot is open-toed, an unexpected (albeit impractical) twist, and instead of contrived bunching, we get natural folds and creases for a more architectural effect.

TO PULL IT OFF: As with most avant-garde statements, let the piece lead the outfit and anything else in the ensemble play a supporting role. Try this boot with a figure-hugging jersey or oversize cable-knit sweater dress in a solid colour and chunky lucite bangles.


Costume National
Tough glamour from Vivienne Westwood

Top 10 trends: # 7

# 7: Metallic
The future is now. Metal details and robotic armor are certainly a bold statement, like this Thierry Mugler piece, which Beyonce wears in her "Sweet Dreams" video:

Photo from bryanboy.com (wirq...)

TO PULL IT OFF: For the humanoids out there, this is actually not that hard to work into a sane wardrobe. Try some geometric jewelry or footwear for evening, or throw on some futuristic chrome sunglasses for day. A metal waistbelt is a great option too, like this one from Karl Lagerfeld:



More exquisite metal detailing from Lagerfeld:

Top 10 trends: # 8

# 8: Ruffles Probably my least favourite motif this season, but one which I'm sure will be wide-spread, ruffles appeared everywhere, mostly on flirty dresses. The pretty-factor is undeniable, but it can easily look clownish.

TO PULL IT OFF: I tend to think less is more when it comes to ruffles, but if you have the confidence and want to make an impact, then pile them on. This will be one season when you can get away with it.

Stella McCartney went with the classic application of ruffles on a one-shoulder neckline.

A gorgeous colour for spring from Gaimbattista Valli

Top 10 trends: # 9

# 9: The Menswear Shirtdress This was one of my favourite developments this season. I love a woman in a man’s dress shirt, and have ever since Sharon Stone wore her husband’s Gap button-down to the 1998 Oscars. For Spring 2010, designers took this idea to the limit, stretching the shirt into a floor length dress.

TO PULL IT OFF: While these dresses are not the most forgiving, anyone can wear a crisp white shirt with a black pencil skirt for secretary-sexy. It works equally well with jeans or dramatic A-line skirts.


Designers interpreted this trend in different ways: Yohji Yamamoto gave us structure...

...while Stella McCartney showed billowy bedroom romance.

Top 10 trends for Spring 2010

Over the new few days I will be counting down my top 10 trends from the Spring 2010 women's ready-to-wear collections; not just what they were, but how to wear them without looking foolish. All photos in this series are from style.com. Without further ado:

# 10: Socks with sandals

The impossible has happened. Socks with sandals stomped down many a catwalk this season, dashing the granola hippy stereotype. While most designers kept this unorthodox combination playful, it can easily look ridiculous.

TO PULL IT OFF: keep the sock thin and the shoe fairly simple. Try a white sock with patent leather for school-girl pretty, or beige with chocolate brown.

Sparkly and fun from Galliano at Christian Dior, this is a great example of how to rock socks and sandals for evening. You'll have to supply your own mile-high stems.

If you can't afford a real European vacation, you can still dress the part, like this jaunty lady at Rochas; I personally love the demure yet free-spirited direction Marco Zanini took in his second collection for the label. Great print, too.

Two Feathers (2009)

A feather, blue, caught on a blade of grass,
In wide a field as there has ever been,
Was by a knowing gust released. And pass
It did, o'er country, field and sea. Unseen

By those land-levelled eyes and earth-held sights,
Directedly, unfetter'dly it went.
The way and nature of its molting might
Not matter now, for it was to be sent

To meet another feather on the sand
In lands with Cheshire moons and daunting suns.
Now faced with this red other, will at hand
Came to accept the former host-bird's shuns.

Now feather lays on feather, plume on plume;
A purple flight together they assume.

Frayed So

Recent seasons have seen deconstruction manifest itself in the fabrics themselves, rather than in their assembly; torn, shredded and re-tied, these pieces reflect youthful, rock n’ roll brashness.

But suppose you’re no longer in that ripped-jeans era of life, or had the good sense to just skip it? You can sport threadbare edges without sacrificing sophistication. For Spring 2010, elite designers use fraying not as a document of destruction, but as a motif, leaving hems unfinished to whimsically unravel. The idea here is to use sartorial “mistakes” as a visual language to shift, subvert and redefine notions of structure.


First out at Fendi


I love Lagerfeld's seemingly effortless precision...

Bold yet demure, this coat was a highpoint at Prada.

Photos from style.com

Burberry Prorsum, Spring 2010

Every season, I wait to see how Christopher Bailey will advance Burberry Prorsum. Since he took the helm in 2001, his designs have remained consistently relevant and innovative. Bailey gives trust-fund kids around the world what they want: clothes that are exquisitely crafted and unapologetically cool. For Spring 2010, Bailey incorporated heaps of draping and ruching without compromising the label’s classic structural aesthetic.

At times, all the knots and twists bordered on histrionic…


… but the embellished shoulders gave the requisite coats uncommon elegance.

Droopy shirts with strappy detailing struck my covetous nerve.

My favourite pieces in the collection were these two trench-dresses: expressive and unique construction with a classic silhouette. Simply beautiful.

PS: I know there are no fashion rules anymore, but “no socks with sandals” is one I happened to like…