Wednesday, October 28, 2009

My current obsession

I bought a leather backpack form Roots two years ago. It still looks new after I dragged it around Europe (twice), Argentina, Australia and an eventing season in Florida. It has confirmed my belief that Roots makes top quality leather goods at an incredibly reasonable pricepoint.

Of course, a backpack is not the most sophisticated statement. Yet I can't bring myself to get a briefcase until I finish my law degree; it's one affectation that makes me balk.

I'm obsessed with the mid-size duffel, the perfect transition between student and professional. It's reasonably masculine too, but still has flair. Here are a few of my favourites:


I love Roots leather products: quality, reasonably priced and free of obnoxious logos.


I saw this bag at the Bally shop in Brisbane. The combination of wool and leather and the simple stripe reminds me of high-quality horse rugs.


I abhor logo. I make an exception for tasteful applications of the Burberry plaid.

Sunday, October 25, 2009

Top 10 trends: # 1

# 1: Internal Spaces
As clothes become more sculptural and materials more technologically advanced, designers are using negative space to shape their ideas. While fashion has always emphasized silhouette (and likely always will) the most significant trend this year engaged with the definition and decoration of internal spaces. This is a new visual frontier for fashion and perhaps is a reflection of contemporary culture; the environmental and economic crises evince a new era of social and political transparency and accountability. Combined with the sheer trend, designers may be parsing fashion’s fixation on the external, penetrating veneers and alluding to the importance of their customers’ interior worlds and lives.

TO PULL IT OFF: This is an avant-garde look, based on the notion of having nothing to hide. As such, the one thing you’ll need to make this work is confidence.


The most accessible way to incorporate negative space into your wardrobe is by using cut-outs, like this dramatic gown from Marchesa...

...and this quirky shoe from Proenza Schouler.

Viktor & Rolf rendered cut-outs in three dimensions.

Decoration of interior spaces: an evening bag hiding inside the fold of a jacket at Karl Lagerfeld

Cultural theorists often refer to a woman's purse as a metaphor for her mystery (I'll spare you the lewd Freudian interpretation). What, then, do we make of this candid bag from Stella McCartney...


...or this clear innovation from Prada?




(uh-oh... is my liberal arts education showing?)

Saturday, October 24, 2009

Top 10 trends: # 2

# 2: Sheer
Translucence was the order of the day at many shows this season. This time around, we evolve past the tarty late-90s exposure of undergarments towards a more architectural layering aesthetic. The fabrics are no longer paper thin and sleek, but gauzy and textural.

TO PULL IT OFF: Layer long over short, slinky over structured, light over heavy; keep the colours in the same palette for more polish. It’s very easy for sheers to look trashy, so try to create visual interest rather than titillation.

Sheer ruffles from Giambattista Valli


Sheer was the last look out at Hermès. Notably, this was the only sheer piece in the collection.

This is a great example of contrasting textures from Stefano Pilati for Yves Saint Laurent: the softness of the fabric against the architecture of the necklace.

The perennial innovator, Gareth Pugh showed layers of shutter-like sheer fabric. While this is an extreme example, consider a top or skirt rendered in this manner.

Top 10 trends: # 3

# 3: The Wrapped Shoe
Grecian footwear has (finally) evolved past the gladiator, as Classical draping migrates down the leg. The new "it" shoe is wrapped, knotted and bound, conjuring images of Geishas and goddesses. You can work this trend in the daytime, in the form of city-friendly flats paired with billowy pants and statement eyewear, or at night, with dramatic platforms and a sparkly cocktail dress.

TO PULL IT OFF: the idea here is romantic, not bulky. Unless you have Elle MacPherson’s legs, keep the wrapping to minimum above the ankle.



Use colour make this look softer, like these two sandals from Burberry Prorsum...


...or harder, like this wedge from Givenchy.

Top 10 trends: # 4

# 4: Frayed Edges
Check out my post "Frayed So" from October first. You can incorporate this trend into nearly any outfit; get creative with the interplay of construction and deconstruction.

Here are some more examples:


Frayed edges can still be incredibly polished. Consider the traditional Chanel tweed.


Unravelling satin at Prada


Tribal influences defined the Rodarte collection. These women never fail to make an original statement.

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Top 10 trends: # 5

# 5: Glitter
Who doesn't love a little sparkle? But instead of a uniform bathing in glitter, designers this season used gems and sequins to illustrate naturalistic shapes and images, often over a sheer backdrop. This means that your head-turning entrance will be evocative as well as glamorous.

TO PULL IT OFF: While many bright young things are irreverently donning sequin embellishments on droopy tees and tanks, I urge anyone over 25 to keep glitter for evening. It's not just appropriate, it simply makes a bigger impact against more mysterious lighting.

Could we be a little more French, please? Chanel, mais bien sur!


Classical vines adorned this prim dress at Miu Miu...


... and this red-carpet showstopper at Marchesa.

Sunday, October 18, 2009

Top 10 trends: # 6

# 6: The New Slouchy Boot
I never liked the slouchy boot. This season's interpretation, however, is a departure from the sloppy, bunchy sheath style, which only serves to accentuate a leg's stubbiness.

The new slouchy boot is open-toed, an unexpected (albeit impractical) twist, and instead of contrived bunching, we get natural folds and creases for a more architectural effect.

TO PULL IT OFF: As with most avant-garde statements, let the piece lead the outfit and anything else in the ensemble play a supporting role. Try this boot with a figure-hugging jersey or oversize cable-knit sweater dress in a solid colour and chunky lucite bangles.


Costume National

Tough glamour from Vivienne Westwood

Saturday, October 17, 2009

Top 10 trends: # 7

# 7: Metallic

The future is now. Metal details and robotic armor are certainly a bold statement, like this Thierry Mugler piece, which Beyonce wears in her "Sweet Dreams" video:

Photo from bryanboy.com (wirq...)

TO PULL IT OFF: For the humanoids out there, this is actually not that hard to work into a sane wardrobe. Try some geometric jewelry or footwear for evening, or throw on some futuristic chrome sunglasses for day. A metal waistbelt is a great option too, like this one from Karl Lagerfeld:



More exquisite metal detailing from Lagerfeld:

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Top 10 trends: # 8

# 8: Ruffles
Probably my least favourite motif this season, but one which I'm sure will be wide-spread, ruffles appeared everywhere, mostly on flirty dresses. The pretty-factor is undeniable, but it can easily look clownish.

TO PULL IT OFF: I tend to think less is more when it comes to ruffles, but if you have the confidence and want to make an impact, then pile them on. This will be one season when you can get away with it.

Stella McCartney went with the classic application of ruffles on a one-shoulder neckline.


A gorgeous colour for spring from Gaimbattista Valli

Top 10 trends: # 9

# 9: The Menswear Shirtdress
This was one of my favourite developments this season. I love a woman in a man’s dress shirt, and have ever since Sharon Stone wore her husband’s Gap button-down to the 1998 Oscars. For Spring 2010, designers took this idea to the limit, stretching the shirt into a floor length dress.

TO PULL IT OFF: While these dresses are not the most forgiving, anyone can wear a crisp white shirt with a black pencil skirt for secretary-sexy. It works equally well with jeans or dramatic A-line skirts.


Designers interpreted this trend in different ways: Yohji Yamamoto gave us structure...

...while Stella McCartney showed billowy bedroom romance.

Top 10 trends for Spring 2010

Over the new few days I will be counting down my top 10 trends from the Spring 2010 women's ready-to-wear collections; not just what they were, but how to wear them without looking foolish. All photos in this series are from style.com. Without further ado:

# 10: Socks with sandals
The impossible has happened. Socks with sandals stomped down many a catwalk this season, dashing the granola hippy stereotype. While most designers kept this unorthodox combination playful, it can easily look ridiculous.

TO PULL IT OFF: keep the sock thin and the shoe fairly simple. Try a white sock with patent leather for school-girl pretty, or beige with chocolate brown.



Sparkly and fun from Galliano at Christian Dior, this is a great example of how to rock socks and sandals for evening. You'll have to supply your own mile-high stems.


If you can't afford a real European vacation, you can still dress the part, like this jaunty lady at Rochas; I personally love the demure yet free-spirited direction Marco Zanini took in his second collection for the label. Great print, too.

Saturday, October 3, 2009

Two Feathers (2009)

A feather, blue, caught on a blade of grass,
In wide a field as there has ever been,
Was by a knowing gust released. And pass
It did, o'er country, field and sea. Unseen

By those land-levelled eyes and earth-held sights,
Directedly, unfetter'dly it went.
The way and nature of its molting might
Not matter now, for it was to be sent

To meet another feather on the sand
In lands with Cheshire moons and daunting suns.
Now faced with this red other, will at hand
Came to accept the former host-bird's shuns.

Now feather lays on feather, plume on plume;
A purple flight together they assume.

Thursday, October 1, 2009

Frayed So

Recent seasons have seen deconstruction manifest itself in the fabrics themselves, rather than in their assembly; torn, shredded and re-tied, these pieces reflect youthful, rock n’ roll brashness.

But suppose you’re no longer in that ripped-jeans era of life, or had the good sense to just skip it? You can sport threadbare edges without sacrificing sophistication. For Spring 2010, elite designers use fraying not as a document of destruction, but as a motif, leaving hems unfinished to whimsically unravel. The idea here is to use sartorial “mistakes” as a visual language to shift, subvert and redefine notions of structure.


First out at Fendi


I love Lagerfeld's seemingly effortless precision...


Bold yet demure, this coat was a highpoint at Prada.



Photos from style.com