For fall 2010, Sparks interpreted a nautical theme in a way that was whimsical, but modern and approachable; no easy feat with a motif that has been done to death. I cannot get the Whaler bag out of my head.
Monday, April 5, 2010
Coveting...
To put it simply, I love Philip Sparks. I'm sure my friends are tired of hearing it, but I've never seen a piece I wouldn't wear and never tried anything on that didn't fit and look fantastic. The appearance of two-tone riding boots in his Fall 2009 collection emboldened me to wear my own outside the stable. (NB: I got my incredibly made custom boots from La Casa de las Botas)
For fall 2010, Sparks interpreted a nautical theme in a way that was whimsical, but modern and approachable; no easy feat with a motif that has been done to death. I cannot get the Whaler bag out of my head.
For fall 2010, Sparks interpreted a nautical theme in a way that was whimsical, but modern and approachable; no easy feat with a motif that has been done to death. I cannot get the Whaler bag out of my head.
Sunday, March 21, 2010
Cape Town
The fall runways were cloaked in mystery and sophistication as this classic garment continues to inspire designers and gain popularity among fearless dressers. Capes can look dower or costumey, so unless you're going for drama, stick to something sleek and tailored.
A great wearable option, the cape/coat hybrid, swept down many catwalks for Fall 2010. Ann Demeulemeester's collection rocked, with architectural collars and leather whip-cord accoutrements.
The first look out at Christian Dior, Karlie Kloss was stunning in leather. This is a fantastic, rich colour for Fall.
Hannah MacGibbon presented a crocheted cape in her accalimed collection for Chloé.
A short swing coat/cape from Dries van Noten.
If you're not comfortable wearing a cape, you can use seperates to imitate the silhouette. Many designers exhibited a full coat or skirt, with a sloping shoulder and a sleeve placed lower and closer to the body, giving the visual effect of a cape with more wearability. Consider this prim ensemble from Fendi.
For the avant-garde, this angular wrap should set pulses racing. Gareth Pugh asserts his unique vision, season after season.
My, what long legs you have! Volume on the upper body can emphasize sculpted gams, like this bold cape from Yves Saint Laurent.
A great wearable option, the cape/coat hybrid, swept down many catwalks for Fall 2010. Ann Demeulemeester's collection rocked, with architectural collars and leather whip-cord accoutrements.
The first look out at Christian Dior, Karlie Kloss was stunning in leather. This is a fantastic, rich colour for Fall. 
Hannah MacGibbon presented a crocheted cape in her accalimed collection for Chloé. 
A short swing coat/cape from Dries van Noten.
If you're not comfortable wearing a cape, you can use seperates to imitate the silhouette. Many designers exhibited a full coat or skirt, with a sloping shoulder and a sleeve placed lower and closer to the body, giving the visual effect of a cape with more wearability. Consider this prim ensemble from Fendi.
For the avant-garde, this angular wrap should set pulses racing. Gareth Pugh asserts his unique vision, season after season. 
My, what long legs you have! Volume on the upper body can emphasize sculpted gams, like this bold cape from Yves Saint Laurent. Saturday, February 13, 2010
Tie One On!
Bows appeared in many Pre-Fall collections and I anticipate we'll see even more on the fall runways. There's something great about bows, whether it's the perfectly crafted flourish on a sash, or a hap-hazard knot in a scarf.
... and swarms of tiny bows at Valentino.
A bow makes a great accent over a structured jacket, like this one from Moschino.
Sexy bow-topped stockings at Christian Dior were an interesting contrast to the collection's military theme.
There were big, floppy cravats at Viktor & Rolf...
... and swarms of tiny bows at Valentino.
A bow makes a great accent over a structured jacket, like this one from Moschino.
Sexy bow-topped stockings at Christian Dior were an interesting contrast to the collection's military theme.Pre-Fall 2010: the Stand-Outs
I love pre-fall because it's so hit-and-miss, with the train-wrecks almost as much fun as the successes. Here are some of my favourites this year:
High socks and short skirts? OK, it's a bit "Clueless" campy, but I love the playfulness of this ensemble from Miu Miu, especially the double-strap closure on the coat.
Going from accessories to RTW, a formidable obstacle, seems to be going well for Devi Kroell. I love the clean elegance of this red vest, a perfect counterpoint of volume, front-to-back.
Leather leggings with raised camellias were a high-point at Chanel. This was possibly my favourite collection.
The Burberry Prorsum collection hung on the back of an Emma Watson doppelganger. I can't restrain my enthusiasm for Bailey's trench-dresses. Keep them coming!
A bit of menswear, a bit of corsetry, a lot of cool; Alexander Wang makes it look easy.
Capes have become less costumey and more accessible. I urge anyone who has considered donning this look to go for it this year. Avoid looking matronly by wearing one with modern detailing, like this oversize pocketed version from YSL.
High socks and short skirts? OK, it's a bit "Clueless" campy, but I love the playfulness of this ensemble from Miu Miu, especially the double-strap closure on the coat. 
Going from accessories to RTW, a formidable obstacle, seems to be going well for Devi Kroell. I love the clean elegance of this red vest, a perfect counterpoint of volume, front-to-back.
Leather leggings with raised camellias were a high-point at Chanel. This was possibly my favourite collection.
The Burberry Prorsum collection hung on the back of an Emma Watson doppelganger. I can't restrain my enthusiasm for Bailey's trench-dresses. Keep them coming!
A bit of menswear, a bit of corsetry, a lot of cool; Alexander Wang makes it look easy. Wednesday, January 27, 2010
Coveting...
Kosmetique Label, the line from Kanya Miki, former assistant to John Galliano and Walter van Beirendonck. I'm an outerwear junkie, and these smart, unique, fashion-forward pieces show an androgynous style that I can't get enough of.
Anyone know who stocks this line? These are from 2006, and I can't find much recent info on this designer...
Sunday, December 20, 2009
Wang vs Wang: Pre-Fall 2010
In this corner: the new darling of downtown fashion, whose front row glistens with fresh-faced starlets and design ingénues – or at least their trendy hangers-on. A developing talent, each season he takes a stronger foothold in the fashion industry. His work is focused and confident, but will he be a survivor?
And in that corner: the fashion heavyweight who needs no introduction. A great New York man once said “You want pasta, you go to Little Italy. You want bridal, you go Wang.” While her dominance of the bridal market for the last 20 years is undeniable, her RTW collections are diverse and fearlessly experimental.
Who will win the War of the Wangs? Find out as we compare their presentations for Pre-Fall 2010. Pre-Fall is often the moment when designers experiment with new ideas. What better platform could their be for examining these two, who are the very definition of avant-garde?
First Look Out
Vera opened with a jacket and knee sock ensemble, evoking a cavalier, private-school badgirl; Alexander showed a belted jacket, coupled with skinny pants which remained a motif throughout the collection.
Vera: 1
Alexander: 0
Blazer
Vera's version went in a tuxedo direction, with peaked lapels; Alexander showed his talent for shifting proportion with this elongated, extreme low-stance interpretation.
Girly
Vera embellished a 1920s silhouette with various textures; Alexander went for sleek, effortless cool by mixing culottes with strapless.
Vera: 1
Alexander: 2
While both Wang LBDs featured assymetrical draping, Vera's was soft, dynamic and alluring; Alexander's was vampy and assertive.
Vera: 2
Alexander: 2
Coats 
A great coat is all about detailing (after cut, of course). I loved the furry pockets on Vera's wool parka and the creative draw-string waist on Alexander's city slicker.
And in that corner: the fashion heavyweight who needs no introduction. A great New York man once said “You want pasta, you go to Little Italy. You want bridal, you go Wang.” While her dominance of the bridal market for the last 20 years is undeniable, her RTW collections are diverse and fearlessly experimental.
Who will win the War of the Wangs? Find out as we compare their presentations for Pre-Fall 2010. Pre-Fall is often the moment when designers experiment with new ideas. What better platform could their be for examining these two, who are the very definition of avant-garde?
First Look Out
Vera opened with a jacket and knee sock ensemble, evoking a cavalier, private-school badgirl; Alexander showed a belted jacket, coupled with skinny pants which remained a motif throughout the collection.Vera: 1
Alexander: 0
Blazer
Vera's version went in a tuxedo direction, with peaked lapels; Alexander showed his talent for shifting proportion with this elongated, extreme low-stance interpretation.Vera: 1
Alexander: 1
Girly
Vera: 1
Alexander: 2
LBD
Vera: 2
Alexander: 2
A great coat is all about detailing (after cut, of course). I loved the furry pockets on Vera's wool parka and the creative draw-string waist on Alexander's city slicker. Vera: 3
Alexander: 2
Off the shoulder
Blame the 80s revival, shoulders are the new erogenous zone. Vera's interpretation was deconstructed and architectural; Alexander created a look which was both casual and sophisticated.
Blame the 80s revival, shoulders are the new erogenous zone. Vera's interpretation was deconstructed and architectural; Alexander created a look which was both casual and sophisticated.Vera: 3
Alexander: 3
Alexander: 3
In the end, I could not choose between a legend and a prodigy, so I put it to you: which Wang holds more space in your heart and closet?
Wednesday, December 9, 2009
Was I the only one...
... underwhelmed by Alexander McQueen's showing for Spring 2010? I'm used to him breaking through limits of form and redefining construction, while delivering fully developed statements. The collection didn't seem especially innovative, other than the footwear:
I guess it's unfair of me to expect him to outdo himself every time out. Still, it made me miss the theatricality of his past shows, for which he was occasionally chastised. Spring/Summer 1999 literally took my breath away:
NOTE added February 18th, 2008: Alexander McQueen died one week ago today. Some people were surprised that I didn't blog about it immediately, and to be honest, I feel strange writing about it now. I thought about compiling and posting my favourite McQueen pieces, but memorialization feels like a callous exercise to me right now. It's hard to explain the grief over someone whom you never met, yet who profoundly influenced your aesthetic outlook. McQueen's work was more than fashion to me. It was a glimpse at something transcendent, visceral and above all, beautiful. He created the kind of otherworldly beauty that made me wonder and dream. My clumsy words are flat and lifeless against what they deign to describe.
One of my most closely cherished dreams was to one day see a McQueen show live. I think I am mourning the death of that dream and grappling with the fact that there will never be another collection to behold.
I leave my criticisms of his last collection, above, unchanged. My words reflect the fact that I never compared, nor could ever compare, Alexander McQueen to any other designer; I could only compare him to himself. The critique proves that you never appreciate what you have until it's gone. I certainly feel that way, and am sure that history will eclipse my remarks as his last collection becomes edified as his greatest.
I mourn in the most selfish way, in grief for my own loss. I hope that Mr. McQueen has found the peace he sought.
I guess it's unfair of me to expect him to outdo himself every time out. Still, it made me miss the theatricality of his past shows, for which he was occasionally chastised. Spring/Summer 1999 literally took my breath away:
NOTE added February 18th, 2008: Alexander McQueen died one week ago today. Some people were surprised that I didn't blog about it immediately, and to be honest, I feel strange writing about it now. I thought about compiling and posting my favourite McQueen pieces, but memorialization feels like a callous exercise to me right now. It's hard to explain the grief over someone whom you never met, yet who profoundly influenced your aesthetic outlook. McQueen's work was more than fashion to me. It was a glimpse at something transcendent, visceral and above all, beautiful. He created the kind of otherworldly beauty that made me wonder and dream. My clumsy words are flat and lifeless against what they deign to describe.
One of my most closely cherished dreams was to one day see a McQueen show live. I think I am mourning the death of that dream and grappling with the fact that there will never be another collection to behold.
I leave my criticisms of his last collection, above, unchanged. My words reflect the fact that I never compared, nor could ever compare, Alexander McQueen to any other designer; I could only compare him to himself. The critique proves that you never appreciate what you have until it's gone. I certainly feel that way, and am sure that history will eclipse my remarks as his last collection becomes edified as his greatest.
I mourn in the most selfish way, in grief for my own loss. I hope that Mr. McQueen has found the peace he sought.
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