Wednesday, December 9, 2009

Was I the only one...

... underwhelmed by Alexander McQueen's showing for Spring 2010? I'm used to him breaking through limits of form and redefining construction, while delivering fully developed statements. The collection didn't seem especially innovative, other than the footwear:



I guess it's unfair of me to expect him to outdo himself every time out. Still, it made me miss the theatricality of his past shows, for which he was occasionally chastised. Spring/Summer 1999 literally took my breath away:






NOTE added February 18th, 2008: Alexander McQueen died one week ago today. Some people were surprised that I didn't blog about it immediately, and to be honest, I feel strange writing about it now. I thought about compiling and posting my favourite McQueen pieces, but memorialization feels like a callous exercise to me right now. It's hard to explain the grief over someone whom you never met, yet who profoundly influenced your aesthetic outlook. McQueen's work was more than fashion to me. It was a glimpse at something transcendent, visceral and above all, beautiful. He created the kind of otherworldly beauty that made me wonder and dream. My clumsy words are flat and lifeless against what they deign to describe.

One of my most closely cherished dreams was to one day see a McQueen show live. I think I am mourning the death of that dream and grappling with the fact that there will never be another collection to behold.

I leave my criticisms of his last collection, above, unchanged. My words reflect the fact that I never compared, nor could ever compare, Alexander McQueen to any other designer; I could only compare him to himself. The critique proves that you never appreciate what you have until it's gone. I certainly feel that way, and am sure that history will eclipse my remarks as his last collection becomes edified as his greatest.

I mourn in the most selfish way, in grief for my own loss. I hope that Mr. McQueen has found the peace he sought.

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

My current obsession

I bought a leather backpack form Roots two years ago. It still looks new after I dragged it around Europe (twice), Argentina, Australia and an eventing season in Florida. It has confirmed my belief that Roots makes top quality leather goods at an incredibly reasonable pricepoint.

Of course, a backpack is not the most sophisticated statement. Yet I can't bring myself to get a briefcase until I finish my law degree; it's one affectation that makes me balk.

I'm obsessed with the mid-size duffel, the perfect transition between student and professional. It's reasonably masculine too, but still has flair. Here are a few of my favourites:


I love Roots leather products: quality, reasonably priced and free of obnoxious logos.


I saw this bag at the Bally shop in Brisbane. The combination of wool and leather and the simple stripe reminds me of high-quality horse rugs.


I abhor logo. I make an exception for tasteful applications of the Burberry plaid.

Sunday, October 25, 2009

Top 10 trends: # 1

# 1: Internal Spaces
As clothes become more sculptural and materials more technologically advanced, designers are using negative space to shape their ideas. While fashion has always emphasized silhouette (and likely always will) the most significant trend this year engaged with the definition and decoration of internal spaces. This is a new visual frontier for fashion and perhaps is a reflection of contemporary culture; the environmental and economic crises evince a new era of social and political transparency and accountability. Combined with the sheer trend, designers may be parsing fashion’s fixation on the external, penetrating veneers and alluding to the importance of their customers’ interior worlds and lives.

TO PULL IT OFF: This is an avant-garde look, based on the notion of having nothing to hide. As such, the one thing you’ll need to make this work is confidence.


The most accessible way to incorporate negative space into your wardrobe is by using cut-outs, like this dramatic gown from Marchesa...

...and this quirky shoe from Proenza Schouler.

Viktor & Rolf rendered cut-outs in three dimensions.

Decoration of interior spaces: an evening bag hiding inside the fold of a jacket at Karl Lagerfeld

Cultural theorists often refer to a woman's purse as a metaphor for her mystery (I'll spare you the lewd Freudian interpretation). What, then, do we make of this candid bag from Stella McCartney...


...or this clear innovation from Prada?




(uh-oh... is my liberal arts education showing?)

Saturday, October 24, 2009

Top 10 trends: # 2

# 2: Sheer
Translucence was the order of the day at many shows this season. This time around, we evolve past the tarty late-90s exposure of undergarments towards a more architectural layering aesthetic. The fabrics are no longer paper thin and sleek, but gauzy and textural.

TO PULL IT OFF: Layer long over short, slinky over structured, light over heavy; keep the colours in the same palette for more polish. It’s very easy for sheers to look trashy, so try to create visual interest rather than titillation.

Sheer ruffles from Giambattista Valli


Sheer was the last look out at Hermès. Notably, this was the only sheer piece in the collection.

This is a great example of contrasting textures from Stefano Pilati for Yves Saint Laurent: the softness of the fabric against the architecture of the necklace.

The perennial innovator, Gareth Pugh showed layers of shutter-like sheer fabric. While this is an extreme example, consider a top or skirt rendered in this manner.

Top 10 trends: # 3

# 3: The Wrapped Shoe
Grecian footwear has (finally) evolved past the gladiator, as Classical draping migrates down the leg. The new "it" shoe is wrapped, knotted and bound, conjuring images of Geishas and goddesses. You can work this trend in the daytime, in the form of city-friendly flats paired with billowy pants and statement eyewear, or at night, with dramatic platforms and a sparkly cocktail dress.

TO PULL IT OFF: the idea here is romantic, not bulky. Unless you have Elle MacPherson’s legs, keep the wrapping to minimum above the ankle.



Use colour make this look softer, like these two sandals from Burberry Prorsum...


...or harder, like this wedge from Givenchy.

Top 10 trends: # 4

# 4: Frayed Edges
Check out my post "Frayed So" from October first. You can incorporate this trend into nearly any outfit; get creative with the interplay of construction and deconstruction.

Here are some more examples:


Frayed edges can still be incredibly polished. Consider the traditional Chanel tweed.


Unravelling satin at Prada


Tribal influences defined the Rodarte collection. These women never fail to make an original statement.

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Top 10 trends: # 5

# 5: Glitter
Who doesn't love a little sparkle? But instead of a uniform bathing in glitter, designers this season used gems and sequins to illustrate naturalistic shapes and images, often over a sheer backdrop. This means that your head-turning entrance will be evocative as well as glamorous.

TO PULL IT OFF: While many bright young things are irreverently donning sequin embellishments on droopy tees and tanks, I urge anyone over 25 to keep glitter for evening. It's not just appropriate, it simply makes a bigger impact against more mysterious lighting.

Could we be a little more French, please? Chanel, mais bien sur!


Classical vines adorned this prim dress at Miu Miu...


... and this red-carpet showstopper at Marchesa.