The Unstableboy

Volume Control

2011-01-18T12:51:00.001-08:00

The message was clear for Pre-Fall 2011: coats with volume ballooned from nearly every collection. It's a fairly easy, playful look that works best with solid colours, clean lines and paired with sleek legs - extra points for a drop-dead statement shoe.

Giambattista Valli went for crimson drama...

...while Marco Zanini played with shapes in solid black at Rochas.

The effect can be emphasized by scorning sleeves and wearing the coat as a cape; I love the turned-in lapels on this piece from Maison Martin Margiela.

Lanvin: great coat, but whoever gave the green light to the cheesy taxidermied animals for this photo-shoot should be shot and stuffed.

The look doesn't have to be so formal. Dsquared showed a parka with the same dimensions.

No one does oversized like Stella McCartney. This was my favourite rendition of this trend for being unapologetically experimental and nailing it. Best of all, McCartney gave us a short version...

...and a long version. I can't decide which I like better.

Marni Menswear, Fall 2011

2011-01-18T12:20:00.001-08:00

I tend not to enjoy Marni's casual garments for women. I find the proportions clownish, the colours dour and the silhouettes unflattering. But the exact same aesthetic is magic on men; it takes a certain rogue masculinity to make these shapes work - tomboys included.

With pieces that were slim cut...

...and oversized, Consuelo Castiglioni kept the Marni flavour strong.

The collection featured versatile knits...

...covetable accessories...

...and fashion-forward outerwear.

Grin and Bare It

2010-10-18T11:00:00.000-07:00

Start crunching, ladies. Bare midriffs were all over the Spring 2011 runways. But don't fret too much. This is not the trashy, hip-hugger look which taunted tummies in the early-Britney era. The modern version bares more ribcage than navel and can actually lengthen the leg line with a higher waist. It's not for everyone, but it can work with a few tricks from the pros.

Versace: a solid colour throughout the ensemble will make this look more wearable.

Max Mara: I love the idea of using a slim belt to define the waistline just below a bare midriff.

Dolce & Gabbana: For pretty and youthful, combine a bare midriff with lace, another big trend this season.

D&G: A more casual rendition.

Betsey Johnson: Although the collection left me a bit confused, you can always count on Betsey for her unique mix of pretty and funky that every girl I know loves.

Giorgio Armani: Dark, glamorous and exotic. My favourite use of this diffcult trend.

Missoni: A disastrous example of what not to do. If you want to bare your stomach in Missoni, buy a bikini.

Laced

2010-09-28T20:00:00.000-07:00

Spring 2011 sees criss-cross lacing detail as a major trend. Lacing tends to be evocative of corsetry, which immediately brings to mind femininity and coquettish sexuality. It can be an easy, wearable trend to incorporate into your wardrobe; just make sure you use it to reflect your personality.

Lacing can be demure, like this piece from Dolce & Gabbana...

... or badass, like these shredded pants from Roberto Cavalli.

Karolina Kurkova smoked down the runway in a laced tunic and killer boots for Emilio Pucci.

If the above examples are too bold, try incorporating smaller lace details, like the bottom of these pants from Gucci.

Carolina Herrera, Spring 2011

2010-09-28T10:55:00.001-07:00

Carolina Herrera broke through the noise of the Spring collections, as she often does, with unequivocal elegance. I was charmed by her use of motif: floral botanist drawings, which she used to showcase her dedication to detail, craftsmanship and artistry.

Herrera will always be a mainstay of the ladies who lunch...

... but her ability to play with design has youthful appeal as well.

She has a masterful sense of proportion and placement...

... and makes no apologies for grandeur, while maintaining refinement.

Haute Couture: Fall 2010

2010-07-28T05:06:00.000-07:00

I have gushed sufficiently over the Dior presentation in an earlier post, and indeed it was my favourite show this season. Here are some other pieces which got my attention.

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli continue to find their footing at the house of Valentino; their couture presentation was experimental to the point of confusion. Still, they did come up with this cage-like dress, which was, I think, the only compelling piece in the lot.

Gaultier's collection was typically French, dark and thought-provoking. He seemed to be exploring the more macabre side of glamour, with tons of untrimmed fur, corsets shaped like rib-cages, monocle adornments and smoking models. I really loved the strength of this loosely gathered coat...

...and the feathered dégradé effect on this skirt.

Innovative and multi-textured fabrics also appeared at Chanel.

Anyone who knows me knows I love booties. These ruched gold ones from Chanel echoed the leg feathers of the giant gold lion around which the girls traipsed.

Lagerfeld ended the Chanel presentation with a series of knee-length dresses with matching boots. The show had a decidedly imperial flavour: a nod to both Eastern and Western cultures which has marked his collections of late.

I didn't think I could love this piece from Armani Privé any more...

...until I saw the fabric up close.

Other Favourites: Resort 2011

2010-07-14T06:29:00.001-07:00

A few other stand-outs from Resort 2011...

Denim on denim from YSL

Beautiful texture from Michael Kors

Shimmer and drama from Donna Karan; the collection was one of her finest.

Romance from Oscar de la Renta

If you thought the trench was played out, check out this lace-trimmed statement piece from Burberry Prorsum

Trendy? Yes. Practical? No. Flattering on most women's bodies? Certainly not. Still, for sheer coolness, this 3.1 Philip Lim outfit gets top marks.

Christian Dior Haute Couture, Fall 2010

2010-07-12T05:33:00.001-07:00

The true genius in John Galliano's latest haute couture for the house of Dior is that he did floral with minimal use of print.

Instead, he used shape, colour and texture to shift away from the de rigueur, decorative arena of floral motif and presented flowers in more dynamic formal language; actual, larger than life flowers came down the runway, as opposed to fabrics covered with facsimiles.

Cellophane head-wraps and waists cinched with raffia and ribbon highlighted his dramatic-as-always interpretation, as Galliano wooed his audience/lover with couture bouquets, as if fresh from a Paris flowershop.

As much as I loved the collection, I did not like the shoes...

Get Loose

2010-06-29T21:54:00.000-07:00

Loosely woven sweaters in easy summer colours are a trend for Spring 2011 menswear. Relaxed, sexy and great for layering, these pieces are stylish without trying too hard. But please, even if you have Cristiano Ronaldo's body, put something under (or over) an open weave to avoid looking like a complete d-bag.

Gun-metal grey continues to proliferate all corners of fashion, and it looks great on this crocheted tank from Louis Vuitton. Sharp sandals, too.

Summer knits are the picture of casual elegance from Hermès...

... and Dolce & Gabbana.

For the fashion fearless, a loosely woven shirt under a trench is a slick interplay of texture and structure. Burberry Prorsum posterboy Charlie France dominated runways this season.

Badly Mischka

2010-06-21T02:23:00.001-07:00

“Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable, we have to alter it every six months.”

The famous words of Oscar Wilde echoed in my head as I viewed the Resort 2011 collection from Badgley Mischka.

What happened, boys? Normally your work is the epitome of modern glamour. This season’s offering of lop-sided and gaudy eye-sores means you’re losing even more ground to Marchesa. Pick it up.

Prada, Spring 2011

2010-06-21T01:37:00.000-07:00

A few years ago in an art theory class, my professor asked us “Can anyone name one, undeniable, unequivocal truth?”

I promptly raised my hand and said “Prada.”

It was more than a quip. Among Miuccia Prada's many gifts is the ability to culminate concepts into fully realized collections. No matter where she ventures thematically, the arc of her aesthetic remains clear.

There was a nod to sportswear with wrap-around sunglasses, complete with neckstraps. Let’s hope there was some irony here and this trend doesn’t step off the runway.

Elusions to hospital scrubs manifested in the palette of clear blues and the boxy shape of T-shirts and shorts.

Schoolboy resonances sounded in the styling...

... and accessories: bags which came down the runway emblazoned with varsity letters and clutched like lunchbags, and bracelets that looked like that perennial summer-camp diversion (do you remember how to do “square”?).

The mixture of references culminated below the ankle, where wingtips sat atop layered soles that were part espadrille and part runner.

Jackets featured extreme tailoring in the waist.

Sweaters further developed a V-shaped torso, emphasizing shoulders with solid colour boat-necks...

...and bright stripes across the chest.

Despite the eclectic inspirations, the collection retained that distinctive, cohesive and utterly desirable quality that is, in a word: Prada.

Party Girl

2010-06-08T23:24:00.000-07:00

Erin Fetherston's Resort 2011 presentation contained a number of adorable party dresses.

I love the neckline on this frock...

... and the placement of the pleats on this khaki number.

Although not the easiest shape to wear, this was my favourite dress in the collection, for it's youthful sophistication and visual clarity.

Black and White: Resort 2011

2010-06-08T23:15:00.000-07:00

This year's Resort presentations weren't very "resort-y". There was a marked transition away from fanciful vacation attire towards elegant and practical dressing. Many designers favoured black and white over bold colour, acknowledging that, especially with today's airline baggage limits, the most important thing when one packs for a sojourn is versatility. Also, as globalization surges forward and destinations on both sides of the equator become equally enticing, the notion of the winter getaway to a warmer climate may be a thing of the past.

Boater hats appeared at Oscar de la Renta...

... and Jason Wu. I doubt this trend will make it far off the runway, but it was a very cute statement. I also adore the visual effect of the off-kilter pattern on this tiered dress.

Christian Dior presented this boldly striped coat.

Erin Fetherston grabbed my attention this season, particularly with this crisp, tuxedo-inspired look.

Diane von Furstenberg makes great use of pattern with this black and white halter two-piece.

Narciso Rodriguez used the simple palette to create balance and simplicity.

I will never tire of a high waisted mermaid skirt with a collared shirt, like this ensemble from Carolina Herrera. It's the type of sophistication that no girl can pull off - it requires a woman.

Ms Herrera also presented this exquisitely fun party dress, for those who find the previous look too staid. I can't think of a girl who wouldn't want this one.

Coveting...

2010-05-28T01:01:00.000-07:00

I first came across Company of We on Facebook, from a friend who was surprised I wasn't aware of the brand. Make no mistake, I am now. This line of affordable separates quietly shifts traditional silhouettes while remaining true to the essence of good tailoring. A bit dandy, a bit laid-back, kind of nerdy and definitely cool, I have a feeling these pieces are going to become my new staples. The S/S 2010 lookbook has me enamoured.

Grey has made an impact in recent seasons as a crisp, fresh neutral. The colour works beautifully to effect the refinement of this jacket.

A 3/4 sleeve is not the easiest thing for a man to pull off, but Company of We's version is undeniably smart and stylish. How can you not love the overturned patterned cuffs?

Plaid Magazine

2010-05-25T17:42:00.000-07:00

Please check out my latest work for Plaid Magazine, shot by Jaclyn Locke.

This inter-season menswear editorial features some of my favourite Canadian designers and retailers, including Apt. 909, GreenShag, Juma and Philip Sparks.

Coveting...

2010-04-05T18:30:00.000-07:00

To put it simply, I love Philip Sparks. I'm sure my friends are tired of hearing it, but I've never seen a piece I wouldn't wear and never tried anything on that didn't fit and look fantastic. The appearance of two-tone riding boots in his Fall 2009 collection emboldened me to wear my own outside the stable. (NB: I got my incredibly made custom boots from La Casa de las Botas)

For fall 2010, Sparks interpreted a nautical theme in a way that was whimsical, but modern and approachable; no easy feat with a motif that has been done to death. I cannot get the Whaler bag out of my head.

Cape Town

2010-03-21T20:30:00.000-07:00

The fall runways were cloaked in mystery and sophistication as this classic garment continues to inspire designers and gain popularity among fearless dressers. Capes can look dower or costumey, so unless you're going for drama, stick to something sleek and tailored.

A great wearable option, the cape/coat hybrid, swept down many catwalks for Fall 2010. Ann Demeulemeester's collection rocked, with architectural collars and leather whip-cord accoutrements.

The first look out at Christian Dior, Karlie Kloss was stunning in leather. This is a fantastic, rich colour for Fall.

Hannah MacGibbon presented a crocheted cape in her accalimed collection for Chloé.

A short swing coat/cape from Dries van Noten.

If you're not comfortable wearing a cape, you can use seperates to imitate the silhouette. Many designers exhibited a full coat or skirt, with a sloping shoulder and a sleeve placed lower and closer to the body, giving the visual effect of a cape with more wearability. Consider this prim ensemble from Fendi.

For the avant-garde, this angular wrap should set pulses racing. Gareth Pugh asserts his unique vision, season after season.

My, what long legs you have! Volume on the upper body can emphasize sculpted gams, like this bold cape from Yves Saint Laurent.

Tie One On!

2010-02-13T22:19:00.001-08:00

Bows appeared in many Pre-Fall collections and I anticipate we'll see even more on the fall runways. There's something great about bows, whether it's the perfectly crafted flourish on a sash, or a hap-hazard knot in a scarf.

There were big, floppy cravats at Viktor & Rolf...

... and swarms of tiny bows at Valentino.

A bow makes a great accent over a structured jacket, like this one from Moschino.

Sexy bow-topped stockings at Christian Dior were an interesting contrast to the collection's military theme.

Pre-Fall 2010: the Stand-Outs

2010-02-13T21:52:00.000-08:00

I love pre-fall because it's so hit-and-miss, with the train-wrecks almost as much fun as the successes. Here are some of my favourites this year:

Capes have become less costumey and more accessible. I urge anyone who has considered donning this look to go for it this year. Avoid looking matronly by wearing one with modern detailing, like this oversize pocketed version from YSL.

High socks and short skirts? OK, it's a bit "Clueless" campy, but I love the playfulness of this ensemble from Miu Miu, especially the double-strap closure on the coat.

Going from accessories to RTW, a formidable obstacle, seems to be going well for Devi Kroell. I love the clean elegance of this red vest, a perfect counterpoint of volume, front-to-back.

Leather leggings with raised camellias were a high-point at Chanel. This was possibly my favourite collection.

The Burberry Prorsum collection hung on the back of an Emma Watson doppelganger. I can't restrain my enthusiasm for Bailey's trench-dresses. Keep them coming!

A bit of menswear, a bit of corsetry, a lot of cool; Alexander Wang makes it look easy.

Coveting...

2010-01-27T18:45:00.001-08:00

Kosmetique Label, the line from Kanya Miki, former assistant to John Galliano and Walter van Beirendonck. I'm an outerwear junkie, and these smart, unique, fashion-forward pieces show an androgynous style that I can't get enough of.

Anyone know who stocks this line? These are from 2006, and I can't find much recent info on this designer...

Wang vs Wang: Pre-Fall 2010

2009-12-20T23:02:00.000-08:00

In this corner: the new darling of downtown fashion, whose front row glistens with fresh-faced starlets and design ingénues – or at least their trendy hangers-on. A developing talent, each season he takes a stronger foothold in the fashion industry. His work is focused and confident, but will he be a survivor?

And in that corner: the fashion heavyweight who needs no introduction. A great New York man once said “You want pasta, you go to Little Italy. You want bridal, you go Wang.” While her dominance of the bridal market for the last 20 years is undeniable, her RTW collections are diverse and fearlessly experimental.

Who will win the War of the Wangs? Find out as we compare their presentations for Pre-Fall 2010. Pre-Fall is often the moment when designers experiment with new ideas. What better platform could their be for examining these two, who are the very definition of avant-garde?

First Look Out
Vera opened with a jacket and knee sock ensemble, evoking a cavalier, private-school badgirl; Alexander showed a belted jacket, coupled with skinny pants which remained a motif throughout the collection.
Vera: 1
Alexander: 0

Blazer

Vera's version went in a tuxedo direction, with peaked lapels; Alexander showed his talent for shifting proportion with this elongated, extreme low-stance interpretation.

Vera: 1

Alexander: 1

Girly

Vera embellished a 1920s silhouette with various textures; Alexander went for sleek, effortless cool by mixing culottes with strapless.
Vera: 1
Alexander: 2

LBD

While both Wang LBDs featured assymetrical draping, Vera's was soft, dynamic and alluring; Alexander's was vampy and assertive.
Vera: 2
Alexander: 2
Coats

A great coat is all about detailing (after cut, of course). I loved the furry pockets on Vera's wool parka and the creative draw-string waist on Alexander's city slicker.

Vera: 3

Alexander: 2

Off the shoulderBlame the 80s revival, shoulders are the new erogenous zone. Vera's interpretation was deconstructed and architectural; Alexander created a look which was both casual and sophisticated.

Vera: 3
Alexander: 3

In the end, I could not choose between a legend and a prodigy, so I put it to you: which Wang holds more space in your heart and closet?

Was I the only one...

2009-12-09T02:41:00.001-08:00

... underwhelmed by Alexander McQueen's showing for Spring 2010? I'm used to him breaking through limits of form and redefining construction, while delivering fully developed statements. The collection didn't seem especially innovative, other than the footwear:

I guess it's unfair of me to expect him to outdo himself every time out. Still, it made me miss the theatricality of his past shows, for which he was occasionally chastised. Spring/Summer 1999 literally took my breath away:

NOTE added February 18th, 2008: Alexander McQueen died one week ago today. Some people were surprised that I didn't blog about it immediately, and to be honest, I feel strange writing about it now. I thought about compiling and posting my favourite McQueen pieces, but memorialization feels like a callous exercise to me right now. It's hard to explain the grief over someone whom you never met, yet who profoundly influenced your aesthetic outlook. McQueen's work was more than fashion to me. It was a glimpse at something transcendent, visceral and above all, beautiful. He created the kind of otherworldly beauty that made me wonder and dream. My clumsy words are flat and lifeless against what they deign to describe.

One of my most closely cherished dreams was to one day see a McQueen show live. I think I am mourning the death of that dream and grappling with the fact that there will never be another collection to behold.

I leave my criticisms of his last collection, above, unchanged. My words reflect the fact that I never compared, nor could ever compare, Alexander McQueen to any other designer; I could only compare him to himself. The critique proves that you never appreciate what you have until it's gone. I certainly feel that way, and am sure that history will eclipse my remarks as his last collection becomes edified as his greatest.

I mourn in the most selfish way, in grief for my own loss. I hope that Mr. McQueen has found the peace he sought.

My current obsession

2009-10-28T00:24:00.000-07:00

I bought a leather backpack form Roots two years ago. It still looks new after I dragged it around Europe (twice), Argentina, Australia and an eventing season in Florida. It has confirmed my belief that Roots makes top quality leather goods at an incredibly reasonable pricepoint.

Of course, a backpack is not the most sophisticated statement. Yet I can't bring myself to get a briefcase until I finish my law degree; it's one affectation that makes me balk.

I'm obsessed with the mid-size duffel, the perfect transition between student and professional. It's reasonably masculine too, but still has flair. Here are a few of my favourites:

I love Roots leather products: quality, reasonably priced and free of obnoxious logos.

I saw this bag at the Bally shop in Brisbane. The combination of wool and leather and the simple stripe reminds me of high-quality horse rugs.

I abhor logo. I make an exception for tasteful applications of the Burberry plaid.

Top 10 trends: # 1

2009-10-25T00:00:00.000-07:00

# 1: Internal SpacesAs clothes become more sculptural and materials more technologically advanced, designers are using negative space to shape their ideas. While fashion has always emphasized silhouette (and likely always will) the most significant trend this year engaged with the definition and decoration of internal spaces. This is a new visual frontier for fashion and perhaps is a reflection of contemporary culture; the environmental and economic crises evince a new era of social and political transparency and accountability. Combined with the sheer trend, designers may be parsing fashion’s fixation on the external, penetrating veneers and alluding to the importance of their customers’ interior worlds and lives.

TO PULL IT OFF: This is an avant-garde look, based on the notion of having nothing to hide. As such, the one thing you’ll need to make this work is confidence.

The most accessible way to incorporate negative space into your wardrobe is by using cut-outs, like this dramatic gown from Marchesa...
...and this quirky shoe from Proenza Schouler.

Viktor & Rolf rendered cut-outs in three dimensions.

Decoration of interior spaces: an evening bag hiding inside the fold of a jacket at Karl Lagerfeld

Cultural theorists often refer to a woman's purse as a metaphor for her mystery (I'll spare you the lewd Freudian interpretation). What, then, do we make of this candid bag from Stella McCartney...

...or this clear innovation from Prada?

(uh-oh... is my liberal arts education showing?)

Top 10 trends: # 2

2009-10-24T23:06:00.000-07:00

# 2: SheerTranslucence was the order of the day at many shows this season. This time around, we evolve past the tarty late-90s exposure of undergarments towards a more architectural layering aesthetic. The fabrics are no longer paper thin and sleek, but gauzy and textural.

TO PULL IT OFF: Layer long over short, slinky over structured, light over heavy; keep the colours in the same palette for more polish. It’s very easy for sheers to look trashy, so try to create visual interest rather than titillation.

Sheer ruffles from Giambattista Valli

Sheer was the last look out at Hermès. Notably, this was the only sheer piece in the collection.

This is a great example of contrasting textures from Stefano Pilati for Yves Saint Laurent: the softness of the fabric against the architecture of the necklace.

The perennial innovator, Gareth Pugh showed layers of shutter-like sheer fabric. While this is an extreme example, consider a top or skirt rendered in this manner.

Top 10 trends: # 3

2009-10-24T22:40:00.000-07:00

# 3: The Wrapped Shoe

Grecian footwear has (finally) evolved past the gladiator, as Classical draping migrates down the leg. The new "it" shoe is wrapped, knotted and bound, conjuring images of Geishas and goddesses. You can work this trend in the daytime, in the form of city-friendly flats paired with billowy pants and statement eyewear, or at night, with dramatic platforms and a sparkly cocktail dress.

TO PULL IT OFF: the idea here is romantic, not bulky. Unless you have Elle MacPherson’s legs, keep the wrapping to minimum above the ankle.

Use colour make this look softer, like these two sandals from Burberry Prorsum...

...or harder, like this wedge from Givenchy.

Top 10 trends: # 4

2009-10-24T22:18:00.000-07:00

# 4: Frayed EdgesCheck out my post "Frayed So" from October first. You can incorporate this trend into nearly any outfit; get creative with the interplay of construction and deconstruction.

Here are some more examples:

Frayed edges can still be incredibly polished. Consider the traditional Chanel tweed.

Unravelling satin at Prada

Tribal influences defined the Rodarte collection. These women never fail to make an original statement.

Top 10 trends: # 5

2009-10-20T03:07:00.000-07:00

# 5: Glitter Who doesn't love a little sparkle? But instead of a uniform bathing in glitter, designers this season used gems and sequins to illustrate naturalistic shapes and images, often over a sheer backdrop. This means that your head-turning entrance will be evocative as well as glamorous.

TO PULL IT OFF: While many bright young things are irreverently donning sequin embellishments on droopy tees and tanks, I urge anyone over 25 to keep glitter for evening. It's not just appropriate, it simply makes a bigger impact against more mysterious lighting.

Could we be a little more French, please? Chanel, mais bien sur!

Classical vines adorned this prim dress at Miu Miu...

... and this red-carpet showstopper at Marchesa.

Top 10 trends: # 6

2009-10-18T05:04:00.000-07:00

# 6: The New Slouchy Boot

I never liked the slouchy boot. This season's interpretation, however, is a departure from the sloppy, bunchy sheath style, which only serves to accentuate a leg's stubbiness.

The new slouchy boot is open-toed, an unexpected (albeit impractical) twist, and instead of contrived bunching, we get natural folds and creases for a more architectural effect.

TO PULL IT OFF: As with most avant-garde statements, let the piece lead the outfit and anything else in the ensemble play a supporting role. Try this boot with a figure-hugging jersey or oversize cable-knit sweater dress in a solid colour and chunky lucite bangles.

Costume National
Tough glamour from Vivienne Westwood

Top 10 trends: # 7

2009-10-17T00:44:00.000-07:00

# 7: Metallic
The future is now. Metal details and robotic armor are certainly a bold statement, like this Thierry Mugler piece, which Beyonce wears in her "Sweet Dreams" video:

Photo from bryanboy.com (wirq...)

TO PULL IT OFF: For the humanoids out there, this is actually not that hard to work into a sane wardrobe. Try some geometric jewelry or footwear for evening, or throw on some futuristic chrome sunglasses for day. A metal waistbelt is a great option too, like this one from Karl Lagerfeld:

More exquisite metal detailing from Lagerfeld:

Top 10 trends: # 8

2009-10-14T21:42:00.000-07:00

# 8: Ruffles Probably my least favourite motif this season, but one which I'm sure will be wide-spread, ruffles appeared everywhere, mostly on flirty dresses. The pretty-factor is undeniable, but it can easily look clownish.

TO PULL IT OFF: I tend to think less is more when it comes to ruffles, but if you have the confidence and want to make an impact, then pile them on. This will be one season when you can get away with it.

Stella McCartney went with the classic application of ruffles on a one-shoulder neckline.

A gorgeous colour for spring from Gaimbattista Valli

Top 10 trends: # 9

2009-10-14T05:35:00.000-07:00

# 9: The Menswear Shirtdress This was one of my favourite developments this season. I love a woman in a man’s dress shirt, and have ever since Sharon Stone wore her husband’s Gap button-down to the 1998 Oscars. For Spring 2010, designers took this idea to the limit, stretching the shirt into a floor length dress.

TO PULL IT OFF: While these dresses are not the most forgiving, anyone can wear a crisp white shirt with a black pencil skirt for secretary-sexy. It works equally well with jeans or dramatic A-line skirts.

Designers interpreted this trend in different ways: Yohji Yamamoto gave us structure...

...while Stella McCartney showed billowy bedroom romance.

Top 10 trends for Spring 2010

2009-10-14T04:43:00.000-07:00

Over the new few days I will be counting down my top 10 trends from the Spring 2010 women's ready-to-wear collections; not just what they were, but how to wear them without looking foolish. All photos in this series are from style.com. Without further ado:

# 10: Socks with sandals

The impossible has happened. Socks with sandals stomped down many a catwalk this season, dashing the granola hippy stereotype. While most designers kept this unorthodox combination playful, it can easily look ridiculous.

TO PULL IT OFF: keep the sock thin and the shoe fairly simple. Try a white sock with patent leather for school-girl pretty, or beige with chocolate brown.

Sparkly and fun from Galliano at Christian Dior, this is a great example of how to rock socks and sandals for evening. You'll have to supply your own mile-high stems.

If you can't afford a real European vacation, you can still dress the part, like this jaunty lady at Rochas; I personally love the demure yet free-spirited direction Marco Zanini took in his second collection for the label. Great print, too.

Two Feathers (2009)

2009-10-03T16:10:00.001-07:00

A feather, blue, caught on a blade of grass,
In wide a field as there has ever been,
Was by a knowing gust released. And pass
It did, o'er country, field and sea. Unseen

By those land-levelled eyes and earth-held sights,
Directedly, unfetter'dly it went.
The way and nature of its molting might
Not matter now, for it was to be sent

To meet another feather on the sand
In lands with Cheshire moons and daunting suns.
Now faced with this red other, will at hand
Came to accept the former host-bird's shuns.

Now feather lays on feather, plume on plume;
A purple flight together they assume.

Frayed So

2009-10-01T18:25:00.000-07:00

Recent seasons have seen deconstruction manifest itself in the fabrics themselves, rather than in their assembly; torn, shredded and re-tied, these pieces reflect youthful, rock n’ roll brashness.

But suppose you’re no longer in that ripped-jeans era of life, or had the good sense to just skip it? You can sport threadbare edges without sacrificing sophistication. For Spring 2010, elite designers use fraying not as a document of destruction, but as a motif, leaving hems unfinished to whimsically unravel. The idea here is to use sartorial “mistakes” as a visual language to shift, subvert and redefine notions of structure.

First out at Fendi

I love Lagerfeld's seemingly effortless precision...

Bold yet demure, this coat was a highpoint at Prada.

Photos from style.com

Burberry Prorsum, Spring 2010

2009-09-25T03:54:00.000-07:00

Every season, I wait to see how Christopher Bailey will advance Burberry Prorsum. Since he took the helm in 2001, his designs have remained consistently relevant and innovative. Bailey gives trust-fund kids around the world what they want: clothes that are exquisitely crafted and unapologetically cool. For Spring 2010, Bailey incorporated heaps of draping and ruching without compromising the label’s classic structural aesthetic.

At times, all the knots and twists bordered on histrionic…

… but the embellished shoulders gave the requisite coats uncommon elegance.

Droopy shirts with strappy detailing struck my covetous nerve.

My favourite pieces in the collection were these two trench-dresses: expressive and unique construction with a classic silhouette. Simply beautiful.

PS: I know there are no fashion rules anymore, but “no socks with sandals” is one I happened to like…

CHEEK magazine

2009-09-22T00:53:00.000-07:00

Please check out my latest work for CHEEK Magazine:

Surveillance - menswear editorial shot by Ivan Otis
The Father, the Son and the Wardrobe - article by MOI

Roll Call

2009-09-20T19:27:00.000-07:00

Generally, we roll up our pants out of necessity, if we just have to wear those new pants before getting a chance to have them properly hemmed. Recent seasons have seen ankles as the new erogenous zone for both men and women; rolled cuffs have become a motif in their own right. It can look either cavalier or sloppy, so take a cue from these Spring 2010 runway successes.

In response to economic skies falling, Ralph Lauren gave us page-boy chic in his collection, inspired by the 1930s.

I’m loving the sharp palette and French-cuffed pants on this modern-day dandy at Thom Brown.

Band of Outsiders continues to dominate contemporary menswear. Scott Sternberg’s tailoring creates strong yet easy pieces, perfect for young professionals and dreamers alike.

YIKES

2009-09-19T23:26:00.000-07:00

I’m a huge fan of Marni, particularly their eyewear line, but this look for Resort 2010 is ten shades of ugly. ..

What do you think?

Separate Illusions: a design masterclass

2009-09-18T04:57:00.000-07:00

Ask any Stacy or Clinton: quality separates are essential for smart dressing. Versatile and enduring, these pieces show their value in design and construction rather than trend or logo. This fall, a certain echelon of designers engages the savvy dresser’s penchant by creating the illusion of separates in single garments. Young designers take note: this apparently simple formal language is perfected not through expressivity but through artifice.

Alber Elbaz develops his oeuvre at Lanvin with the poetic folds of this suit-mimicking dress.

Miuccia Prada uses a truncated train to create the effect of a jacket over a skirt.

Nicolas Ghesquière conflates dresses and outerwear at Balenciaga.

Photos from style.com

Night of Fashion

2009-09-14T02:47:00.000-07:00

Designer Forum Showcase @ The Ruby Tramp, Surfer’s Paradise, Australia
September 13, 2009

The Gold Coast has long been Mecca for sun seekers, but the recent influx of international students has created a burgeoning clientele for the fashion industry. Easy access to education has created easy excess by drawing the image conscious offspring of the West’s affluent with the promise of quickie MBAs and JDs soaked up with plenty of UVs. Add the leggy bronzed locals, the Riviera-weary jetsetters and mix well for a potent fashion cocktail.

Tara Rose Hyman, one of the top stylists on the Gold Coast, created a Night of Fashion to bring to life the shelves of Designer Forum, the pre-eminent Australian boutique and fashion consultancy firm. Although the party stopped being fun around midnight, the guests achieved effortless chic. Well, the ladies at least.

The room was a forest of sexy sky-scrapers, easily tossing hair and aussie bucks. These girls are more than stylish; they know how to work a trend. Strapping on aggressive heels, more apocalyptic than dominatrix, with neck-slung diaphanous frocks in blues and creams, they showed that innate ability to recklessly accessorize which only works in your 20s.

As for the boys (there were no men in attendance) most looked like they needed a good scrubbing. Outnumbered 5 to 1 at least, they managed to take graphic Ts and processed jeans to a new level of banality. Their crassness culminated as one guest, in the middle of the runway presentation, urbanely shouted “Show us your fucking tits!” Ah, Queensland…

The collections were hit and miss. Karen Walker showed some impressive jackets, but the accentuated shoulders felt de rigeur for the season and somewhat derivative. Zimmerman’s attempt at avant-garde draping made me yawn outwardly. The shutter pleating on some of the dresses was simply wrong in terms of proportion and position, and made some of the models look positively dumpy. Sass + Bide did not disappoint, striking a fine balance between structure and flow; this label is very right now. Sretsis, a last minute addition to the lineup, stole the show. With an unapologetically pretty aesthetic, this Thai label gave us frills, thrills and bows with origami precision. Using two-ply fabrics in contrasting colours, the garments emphasized internal lines and shapes, particularly in the first look out, a black and white cocktail dress that I’m sure is on every guest’s must-have list.

Designer Forum can be contacted through their website at http://www.designerforum.com.au/ or in their retail location at the Robina Town Centre, Robina, QLD.

The Quick and Kept (2009)

2009-05-07T16:32:00.000-07:00

We are the Romeos, the Juliets,
The irresponsible, the quick, and kept
From wide and varied pitfalls and regrets
By wiser hands than ours. For we'd have leapt

O'erhastily into Love's promised land
(And still we leap, o'erhasty, to His lies).
We'd sacrifice and drown and burn our hand,
So reverent we'd be to Love. Demise

Would rush upon our fool's alliances.
Destruction would lose all its poetry.
Romantics true know not dalliances
For like true whores, ours is true harlotry.

Our vestal robes, like shackling vines o'ergrown,
Love's slaves we are and yet to Him unknown.

I Am the Dance (2008)

2009-02-22T13:10:00.000-08:00

A hollowness inside. It shakes and cracks my guts and innards, rotting and putrid.
Self-inflicted, self-drowned in alcohol and house music.

I am the bass drum. I am the high-hat.

The rhythm in my bones pops and jumbles my scattered frame with sass and insecurity.
My feet are fixed and rigid until a familiar chorus charms my lips. An invisible lover’s hands arrive on my own skin and in my hair. The wave articulates down my spine and opens my hips as it’s all forgotten and someone else comes calling out of me.

I am a drunken hot mess on the dance floor. On the stage.

I conduct the now synchronized crowd.
My arms swing high and low as I become their unified beat. Their energy and mine vibrate higher and feed each other and we swell together. In this moment we become a common destiny. Eyes close, the beat is inside and out. Bodies become superfluous and faces dissipate. The swell becomes a flight, an ascension through layers of space.

We fly.

We fly because we know how. We fly because we can. We fly against the tyranny of gravity.

In this flight we encounter ourselves.
In this flight we triumph.

We drown witches and face demonic nymph twin murderers. In these battles we see the enemy as our brother, thank him for releasing us, show no fear against his juggernaut of blades flashing into our flesh. The flight returns to earth with an impact that puts us abreast and between our enemy, sharing the colour field that we breathe in and build.

We save the moaning flock who cry and tie their shoelaces together into webs, shackled in their shared sorrow for the lost.

In this flight I am alone and together, hot and cold, the light and the dark.

I am free.

I am the dance.

Here I Love Him (2008)

2009-02-22T11:53:00.001-08:00

Morning awakens and shaken within,
Shadows of dreams all come rumbling in.

Under the windows a grey light comes crawling.
Inside the warmth of my bedclothes I’m sprawling.

Into myself, I draw into a curl,
Letting my guarded desires unfurl.

Stop playing tricks on my joys and my sorrows.
Stop letting go of past days and tomorrows.

‘Scape into fantasy, run into light,
Put down excuses and throw away fright.

Stop with the calculus, drop-kick all reason.
Shower myself with the promise of seasons.

In this sweet place where I know no one knows,
No one can see what my face surely shows;

In this sweet time of unmasked devastation,
Time-polished fears cry the need for salvation;

In this sweet moment when no one can tell
My heart’s a thirsty and cavernous well;

Here I’m allowed to be heedlessly happy
Here I’m allowed to be chronically sappy

Here no one tells me to put down the phone.
Here no one tells me I’m better alone.

Here I’m allowed to give over to hoping,
Easiest done between sleeping and doping.

Here there’s no question, no games and no sin.
Here he just loves me, and here I love him.

Strength (2005)

2009-02-04T13:06:00.000-08:00

The moment when my self- effacing peaked,
My ragged, wretched soul near fossilized,
Of resignation through I must have reaked,
For gifts of strength bled forth from his frail eyes.

So sure was I of what he was to say,
I played semantic games with pride and mirth.
But better things he wished for me today
Than will I understand 'til my child's birth.

Prophetic he was not, nor absolute,
And I resisted, lashed out violently.
Tempered, like a hand that holds trump suit,
Benevolence and calmness marked his plea.

The moment when I knew his words would fail,
The strength in all of us he did exhale.

One Small Person (2008)

2009-02-04T12:49:00.000-08:00

Do I ever catch you mind?
Do I ever hold your thoughts?
Do I ever tie your consciousness in never ending knots?

Do I ever make you smile?
Do I wake your sleeping heart?
Could I bring you quiet respite when your world is blown apart?

Can you see the world around me?
Do you see how much I ache?
Can you show me what is real and what is true and what is fake?

I am just this one small person.
It is all that I can be.
And all this one small person wants is you to be with me.

Untitled (2008)

2009-02-04T12:44:00.000-08:00

Not the high of first encounter, with the magnitude of stars;
Not the giants in the sky adorning Jupiter and Mars;

Not the effortful surrender of anticipated dance,
As the charging in my veins gives way to readiness and chance;

Not the galloping beneath me, the bright rhythm in my bones;
Not the flying over water or the scramble over stones;

Not the fleetingness of victory, or linger of defeat;
Not the reins soft in my fingers, or the stirrups on my feet;

Not the bittersweet returning to a place that knows me well,
With the glory shone from heaven and uncertainty from hell;

Not the blind and foolish passion, not the sacrifice of youth;
Only in the depth of your sweet face did I discover truth.

Jealousy (2007)

2009-02-04T12:41:00.000-08:00

The greenness in your eyes that wasn’t mine;
Your honest laughter, that was not for me;
My never-uttered promise you’d decline;
Your sweet skin’s curves and marks I’ll never see;

These tokens were not tokens, they were gifts,
And though you found me wanting of their worth,
Yet something through the heaviness still lifts
My head, my heart, my chin. For after birth

There are no promises. No one can say
“Yes, this is my forever” and be sure.
For all that we are promised is today.
Your gaze, your sound, your touch is not so pure

As what may yet come to me, so I wait.
My jealousy's a mix of love and hate.

Unexpected, unexplained (2006)

2009-02-04T12:31:00.000-08:00

Like rifle hilts bent sideways overhead the trees grew thick;
The greenness and the redness and my heartbeat coming quick.

The way broke clear, the path awoke, and standing in its wake,
A nymph of premonitions there into my eyes bespake.

Her lids were thickly painted like the secrets of a fox.
Enchantress devastating me with hypnotizing locks.

They flashed and swam and changed their tone forgetting they were hair
And what would happen in that glade would only happen there.

She tempted me, and I did her, and both of us inclined.
I felt her body steam within and left myself behind.

My skin pretended it was stuck to her, I do confess,
For never did it wish to part from her and her caress.

Then overhead the trees grew close and ushered by their plea
I left my nymph, but still I’m followed by her memory.

First post

2009-02-04T12:23:00.001-08:00

I've succumbed to being a blogger. The narcissist in me believes people actually care what I have to say, and Facebook just isn't doing it for me anymore. The first posts are going to be love poems and letters, some many years old. I may branch out into art/fashion articles, but for now I'll stick to being a hopeless romantic.

I hope you enjoy. All comments and critiques are welcome. I like pain, so if you hate something, bring it.

-Rohan